Perhaps Teona Khaindrava never thought that she would end up as a caterer in life. She was from Georgia and liked music, opera in particular.
Then, in 2014, Senza Gluten saw the light, as a small, just over 60-seat eatery at 206 Sullivan Street. It was cold that winter and Teona still remembers it.
People told her, “you’ll never make it” and yet here she is, eight years and a pandemic later, with a full house on a Monday night. She smiles and says, “This is what I strive for every day.”
A space created – the name says it all – for all those who are gluten intolerant. Simply put, heaven for celiacs, and for those who just shun gluten.
“We are aware of how difficult it can be to dine out for people with celiac disease,” she says, “sitting at the table and being worried about every dish served is a very bad feeling. That’s why we strive to create an environment where people with celiac disease can be assured that they won’t have a problem. From the specialized allergen training for staff, to the ordering of supplies, to the kitchen, to the table; everything we do is controlled. There is no contamination.”
What is not lacking is flavor. Everything that celiacs usually can’t find is here on the menu. Fried calamari, lasagna, pasta, homemade gnocchi, cannoli and tiramisu: dishes of which it is difficult to find safe gluten-free versions. The staff in the dining room is extremely polite, young guys who despite their age show excellent knowledge of ingredients and pairings.
The restaurant, established in a building constructed in the early 1900s, still has antique furnishings, and the soft lighting helps create a convivial atmosphere.
“We’ve managed to create a community,” continues Teona, who often must get up from the table to greet the many customers who come to eat, “and that’s the most beautiful thing.”
During the pandemic, in fact, it was the affection of customers that made it possible for her business to survive.
“It was incredible. There were people in line ordering food just to support the restaurant. The people in the neighborhood care about us, there is a great sense of family. One customer, also during those months, wanted to hug me after he picked up his order. He missed the human contact. Someone was even throwing bills out of the windows. I was moved.”
Indeed, more than a restaurant, sitting at the tables of Senza Gluten almost feels like being in a members’ club. Leading the way is the feeling of never being ignored, of knowing a little about everyone.
There are many Italian dishes and products. From the wines to the main courses, there is a touch of white, red and green in everything, the colors of the Italian flag. Teona is also a frequent organizer of numerous collaborations with local groups, including Columbia University’s Celiac Disease Center and the NYC Celiac Disease Meetup Group.
“Over the years I have seen people come back, slowly becoming familiar faces. I have seen children grow up, witnessed marriage proposals, and guests become good friends.”
It is from them, and their requests, that many of the recipes on the menu we have today were born. “We create traditional Italian classics with a completely gluten-free approach.” A novelty that does not displease the palate and defeats many prejudices.
Senza Gluten is the perfect restaurant for celiacs. But even non-celiacs, with Teona Khaindrava’s advice, will leave happy and satisfied.
