In one of the most visited countries on Earth, and in one of its most storied regions, there is a place that even many Italians don’t know exists.
The Valley of the Mills (Il Vallone dei Mulini or Valle dei Mulini), right in the heart of the tourist-congested Amalfi Coast, is a silent valley where nature has reclaimed the medieval and the modern ruins of the mills that produced oil and flour for centuries. The ivy and vines have taken over the bricks and mortar, the deep cracks in the earth have filled in with shrubs and trees.
The gorge that houses the crumbling buildings was created during a huge eruption which devastated the Mediterranean area 35.000 years ago. The same one that created the volcanically volatile Campi Flegrei, outside of Naples, at the feet of Vesuvius. The flour mills, built from stone as far back as the 13th century, were in a perfect location to access the stream at the bottom of the valley. It was once home to thriving flour mills, sawmills, and tanneries powered by the water from the Canneto River.
The mills were crucial for the local population, the flour for their bread came from here. But not only flour. A sawmill had already stood here from the earliest times and provided sawn wood from the beginning of the tenth century.
The success of the flour mills drew other early industrial enterprises, but eventually the milling of flour was largely shifted to nearby pasta mills, the sunken area of industry became obsolete and the buildings were closed and abandoned in the 1940’s.
Today the gorge and its abandoned ruins look more like an archaeological site than a tourist destination—albeit one off the beaten track.
How to get there:
The Valle dei Mulini being on the Amalfi Coast, you have an embarrassment of choice as to where you want to establish your homebase: Amalfi, Positano or of course, the nearest of the jewel-like towns on the Coast, Sorrento.
The trail starts near the center of Sorrento, close to Piazza Tasso, which is the main square in the town. From there, you can follow signs or ask locals for directions to the start of the trail.
The path is well-paved at the start, surrounded by old buildings and lemon trees, but then the fascinating adventure starts: ancient, abandoned houses covered by plants, the river, beautiful waterfalls one after another. A lost world of towering cliffs, exuberant vegetation, strange falls and plants unique to this area. As you leave the bustling streets of Sorrento behind, you’ll enter a serene natural landscape.
The path winds through the valley, following a gentle incline at times. The terrain can vary, from dirt trails to rocky paths, so wearing appropriate footwear is recommended. The length and difficulty of the hike can vary depending on the specific route you choose and your level of fitness. Some trails may be more challenging than others, so be sure to research and plan accordingly. The hike loops back to the starting point in Sorrento, allowing you to return to the town center and enjoy a well-deserved meal or refreshment at one of the local cafes or restaurants.
It’s advisable to check with the local tourist information office or online resources for any updates on trail conditions or specific directions before starting your hike.
Where to stay:
If you’re looking for pampering and want to treat yourself to luxury, the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is for you. This luxurious 5-star hotel is located in the heart of Sorrento overlooking the Bay of Naples. It offers elegant rooms, beautiful gardens, and excellent amenities. The Valley of the Mills is within walking distance from the hotel.
The Hotel Bellevue Syrene is situated on the cliffside overlooking the sea, this stunning 5-star hotel offers fantastic views and a serene atmosphere. It’s located close to Sorrento’s historic center and provides convenient access to the Valley of the Mills.
Another possibility is the Hotel Antiche Mura. This boutique hotel is located in the historic center of Sorrento, offering easy access to shops, restaurants, and attractions. It provides comfortable rooms, a rooftop terrace, and friendly service. The Valley of the Mills is a short stroll away.
Where to Eat:
Ristorante Zi’Ntonio: This restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere and serves authentic Neapolitan cuisine, including fresh seafood dishes. It’s located in the heart of Sorrento and is highly praised for its delicious food and friendly service.
L’Antica Trattoria: Known for its traditional Italian recipes and warm ambiance, L’Antica Trattoria is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. The menu features a variety of pasta, seafood, and meat dishes prepared with fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
O’Parrucchiano La Favorita: Established in 1868, O’Parrucchiano La Favorita is one of the oldest restaurants in Sorrento. It’s famous for inventing the popular dish “gnocchi alla Sorrentina” and continues to impress diners with its authentic Italian flavors.
Not to Miss:
Besides the Valley of the Mills you have the full panoply of towns along the Amalfi Coast to visit: Amalfi, Positano, Sorrento, Ravello, Maiori and Minori, Vietri, and of course, the city that’s the gateway to the Coast, Salerno with its rich historical past and stunning architecture and landscapes.
