The Aosta Valley is a small, almost entirely mountainous paradise marked by the highest mountains in the Alps on the border with France. But in addition to being a popular skiing and hiking destination for its natural beauty, this region can boast of well over seventy castles that literally make one’s eyes glaze over with their beauty.
Though they are all must-see’s, and it’s almost impossible to pick out the best, here are a few that we consider to be the absolutely unmissable.
Fénis is the most visited by tourists and among the best preserved in Italy. Perched on a small hill, this building was the stately residence of the noble Challant family, and already looking at it from the outside with its picturesque towers and crenellated walls, it literally drags us into the Middle Ages. But the enchantment continues inside, where we find a sumptuous chapel frescoed with brightly colored religious themes, majestic fireplaces where royal banquets were prepared, and, gem among gems, a marvelous courtyard with Renaissance frescoes that look like those of a Florentine church or palace, among which that of St. George slaying the dragon stands out for its elegance.
Going southward we find the Fort of Bard, named after the picturesque village it dominates from above. The view we have is spectacular, as it is a complex of buildings rising up a rocky promontory to the top, all in a romantic picture setting. In fact, the crown of mountains that surrounds it, together with the Dora Baltea River and the more developed area below it, create a thrilling view.
The location for this castle was certainly not chosen by chance, or simply for its beauty, as Bard is located in a strategic area just a stone’s throw from the Po Valley. Although existing for centuries, the buildings we see today date back only to the 19th century, after Napoleon Bonaparte almost totally razed the fort. Today the castle should definitely be visited for its Alpine Museum, among the most important in Europe, where much can be understood about Alpine culture, and for its prisons, where a museum tour has been created to fully understand its military history.
Heading towards Monte Rosa, in the beautiful village of Gressoney Saint Jean, we find a turreted, white manor house with a truly fairytale appearance and a breathtaking view of the Lyskamm glacier, Castel Savoia. Built in the late nineteenth century, it was in fact the summer residence of Queen Margherita, world-famous for inspiring the eponymous pizza made with tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese–the colors of the Italian flag. It is a jewel not only on the outside, surrounded by a park with a botanical garden full of flowers of every species, but also on the inside, where its oak staircase, among the most striking in the world, amazes us with its majestic double helix adorned with a profusion of carvings of animals. In the castle’s incredible rooms several styles create a varied and interesting mix. In the midst of all this, a painting of Queen Margherita in all her elegance dominates.
Still staying with the Savoy family, there is another wonderful castle of theirs in Sarre. Once a medieval castle, it later became a hunting lodge with Victor Emmanuel II, later housing all the principal members of the family. It is undoubtedly a singular palace, with the Gallery and Hall decorated with hundreds of chamois and ibex antlers, testifying to the family’s hunting passion. In addition, the palace also has a small park from which there is a sensational view of the surrounding countryside.
In between your visits to these castles, you’ll need refreshment. Stop at one of the many traditional local restaurants to savor some of the local cuisine and wines. Perhaps start with an appetizer by trying two great cured meats, Arnad lard and Bosses ham. As for the first and second courses, the cuisine of this alpine region is hearty and rich. First you might want to enjoy a warm Savoy cabbage soup (zuppa di verza) and then follow it up with a steaming polenta, pairing them both with fontina, a sweet-tasting cheese made from the milk of the Valdostan breeds of cattle.
To end such a satisfying and typically Aostan meal, try a good Genepi, a herbal liqueur named after locally-grown a high mountain plant that is infused in alcohol for about 40 days and later diluted in a sugar solution.
