The United States may be known for its larger-than-life portions, and perhaps even for the obesity problem that comes with them, but New York City is quietly stepping away from that reputation, with what looks like a renewed commitment to tapas, tasting menus, and small plates.
As more New Yorkers turn to weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, Wegovy, and Mounjaro, their appetites are shrinking alongside their waistlines. And restaurants have begun to take note, revising menus to include “single, flavor-packed bites” aimed at diners who might only want a few nibbles, but still crave the ritual of going out in the city that never sleeps.
The growing use of these drugs is no secret — and restaurants seem more than happy to adjust. Max Tucci, founder of Tucci in NoHo, told the New York Post that the restaurant recently began offering its caviar-topped arancini in a single-serving portion for $12, replacing the standard three-for-$34 plate. “It’s a win for the restaurant,” Tucci said, “because it results in less food waste.”
The Ozempic effect might even be helping the climate crisis, if only by accident. Smaller appetites mean smaller servings, and smaller servings mean fewer leftovers scraped into the trash.
Clinton Hall, a burger spot with several locations around the city, is also paring things down. This summer, it introduced a “Teeny Weeny Mini Meal” featuring two 1-ounce beef patties and baby-sized buns. And at l’abeille, a haute Japanese-French destination, the five-course tasting menu has been replaced by a more manageable three-course option.
For some restaurants, the rise of weight-loss drugs has opened up a whole new market for luxurious, high-end bites. At The Noortwyck in the West Village, the single hashbrown topped with caviar and crème fraîche has long been a signature item, but according to chef Andy Quinn, its popularity has only grown over the past year.
Ozempic and its cousins aren’t going anywhere. And neither is the shift in how New Yorkers are choosing to eat. In a city that’s never really stopped reinventing the dining experience, restaurants are once again evolving. This time, one small plate at a time.
